A culinary trip through the Mississippi Delta is filled with flavor and more than a few surprises
MISSISSIPPI DELTA–MAY 2019–When you visit the Mississippi Delta, be sure to come hungry. You won’t regret it. There is, of course, the classic Southern comfort food that is a staple here. It’s in abundance. But while slow-smoked barbecue, farm-raised catfish and Delta-grown rice may be traditions here, they each offer a surprising new spin.
That barbecue is being served up by the likes of a seven-time world barbecue champion. And she–yes, she–has her own way of doing things. Chef and cookbook author Melissa Cookston is well-known as not just a Southern chef but as one of the county’s preeminent pit masters.
And the catfish? It’s being raised by family farmers who are employing amazing technology to ensure the highest of standards for both sustainability and flavor. Simmons Farm Raised Catfish(2628 Erickson Road, Yazoo City, MS 39194), for example, fills man-made ponds with fresh water pumped from wells supplied by aquifers 100 feet below the rich alluvial soil of the Mississippi Delta. The resulting flavor is amazing and can be enjoyed in numerous Delta restaurants, proud to serve their local fare.
Another local crop you’ll find on menus might surprise you, as well. Rice. This is not your average rice! Generations of farmers like those at Two Brooks Farm (404 East Court Street, Sumner, MS 38957) and Delta Blues Rice (3731 Highway 8 East, Ruleville, MS 38771) are not only growing a whole slate of high quality rice varietals, they are doing it by the highest of standards. They are taking care to reduce negative impact on the land and ensure positive impact for consumers.
Even what classifies as “traditional foods” here is surprising to some. As the agriculture industry blossomed, a diverse population moved into the Delta as a result of the need for farm workers. Mexicans and Italians were among the most common and in the 1960s the Delta was said to have the largest Chinese community in the South.
As they moved here, their traditional foods came with them. Of these, tamales may be best known. Throughout the Delta, tamales can be found on the menus of fine restaurants and at street side tamale shacks. Tamales are such a staple here, there is even a festival centered around them. The Hot Tamale Festival, held each October in Greenville, brings artists, musicians and, of course, chefs and foodies together for three days of entertainment, art and tamale-tasting fun.
Another traditional surprise can be found in restaurants like Mai Little China (617 W Park Ave, Greenwood, MS 38930). Here, Matthew and Cathy Mai, serve up Chinese dishes, based on Matthew’s traditional training along with 10 years of Southern cooking experience. The fusion-filled menu is a blend of the best of both worlds. Foodie fans and traditionalists, as well, are impressed with the innovative concepts chef Cole Ellis is employing at the Delta Meat Market (118 North Sharpe Avenue, Cleveland, MS 38732) in Cleveland. An old school meat market, the freshest of local crops and his creative culinary talents combine for a unique dining experience!
Throughout the region, there are also plenty of classic Delta restaurants for the not-to-be-missed list. For years, visitors have found their way to iconic stops such as Hollywood Café (1585 Old Commerce Road, Robinsonville, MS 38664) outside Tunica, the original Doe’s Eat Place (502 Nelson Street, Greenville, MS 38701) in Greenville and Rusty’s Riverfront Café (901 Washington Street, Vicksburg, MS 39180) in historic downtown Vicksburg.
So yes, this region is steeped in tradition. Culinary tradition is no exception. It may, however, be a richer, more flavorful tradition than one might expect. And of course, in the Delta they expect you to mind your manners and try it all. Dig in! You won’t be disappointed.
If you go
Greenwood, Mississippi, is home to the Viking Cooking School (325 C Howard Street, Greenwood, MS 38930). If you love to cook, indulge your passion and register for one of their many classes. Whether you need basics or want to hone your skills, have a family group or need team-building experience, you’ll find the option here. Unique lodging options add to the unique character of the Mississippi Delta and to the memories you’ll cherish when you return. Casino hotels with on-site entertainment, stately historic homes and colorful downtown lofts are all options here. During a Mississippi Delta road trip, you can try them all! Check out this list of unique properties and plan your route.